You have inspired me to want to do this to one of my M48’s. I work in a machine shop and have access to the tools whenever I want, so I’m ready to go. I did come up with a few questions though.Find Mauser 48A Yugoslav rifle parts and schematics from America's leading parts supplier since 1950, Numrich Gun Parts Corp.
When in fact many Yugoslavian K98k’s were procured and handed in a much different manner. A reason for such a degrading comparison is due to the lack of information available on the internet.Felix, Scott and AK Steve enjoyed an afternoon of shooting a pair of VZ24 Mausers and had an informal shooting competition in which Scott triumphed, hitting. Mauser 98 Military rifle barrels 726 Mauser 98K action 728 Mauser rifle model 98 729 Carl Gustav model 96 730 Wehrmann-contour 732 Orig.
It's already been hacked on, drilled and tapped and bubba did a horrible job turning down the bolt handle. I had a Savage 110 and was about to start and I just looked at it and went Bleeeh! Trying to be different can be a bad thing if you take it too far but hopefully you see where I'm going with this.I have a Swedish mauser. I want one so bad I can taste it. I have this really bad habit of PM'ing guys like Goodsteel with ridiculous inane questions like this, wasting the man's time when he's trying to make a living so I'll pose this publicly.I have been trying to come up with something to build a 358 winchester on. Since the chambered end would be cut off to make it fit the Mauser, makes sense to save the money.Also, you said at the end that you would have other videos as to a stock and trigger work? Any info on that?Last question, did you have to do anything for the magazine or did the. 308 rounds fit into the stock Mauser magzine?Any help with this would be greatly apreciated.
I think someone like Ben could do magic with this little stock though. This wood is so very blond it really needs to be sanded back down a stained but I've tried that before and it was disgusting what I did. When I get time I will try to cycle a 308 (Dummy round!) and see how it acts.My stock working skill suck BIG TIME but I did manage to get a piece of bloodwood on there as a tip to hide the nasty chop job. 358 winchester and do a good job of it? I think pressures wouldn't be a problem but the bolt head may be a touch sloppy.
The psi's measured in milsurp M36/M96 chambers with an Oehler M43 run upwards of 55,400 psi. The European MAP for the 6.5x55 Swede runs 3800 (bar) or 55,100 psi. That includes commercial US and European ammunition and milsurp ammunition. I have measured the psi in several different cartridges which are mostly chambered in SR Mausers. 358 does NOT share in.Big difference between what the MAP (Maximum Average Pressure) for a cartridge is and what they are actually loaded to (most often less). It's not good friend to casting.
So the question comes down to the steel used and the heat treatment of the action. The action design as far as strength goes equals most "modern" bolt actions. The SAAMI MAP for the 358 Win is 60,000 psi.The old adage that the SR Mausers were "designed for jus 45,000 psi (CUP)" is not quite true, especially in the case of the Swedish M96 action.
Usually the 2nd round from the magazine (left side) will jam with the bullet nose (especially with FN cast) against the edge of the chamber mouth. This especially occurs when the magazine is loaded and fired. The magazine length and tapered feed rails will most often cause feed problems with a shorter minimally tapered cartridge such as the 358W. The reason is not one of "will the action handle it" but one of feeding. However, as that may be I do not recommend the 358 Win in the M96 action. As to HT are we to assume that M96s produced during the same period as M98s were HT'd To some inferior degree compared to the M98? Especially by the Swedes? I think not.
35 Rem Shilen barrel from Brownell's. Get a 26" pre-threaded for SR Mauser short chambered. Unless you potentially want to have extensive rail mod done to the M96 action and magazine I suggest a cartridge with a taper more atoned to the M96.I offer a much simpler solution which will give a much better 35 cal cartridge, especially for cast bullets. 308W family of cartridges.
The 16" twist of the Shilen barrel will be excellent for upwards of 250 gr bullets, especially cast bullets. It also will have a loaded oal perfect for the 3" magazine of the M96. That case with have the case taper for the M96 rails and will feed perfectly. A NS die can also be similarly shortened to just NS the fired cases for accuracy and longer case life.Case capacity (to the shoulder/neck junction) will be very close to the 358W. I like to just feel the bolt close on the case. Finnish ream the barrel and use those 3 cases to headspace the bolt for your 35x57 cartridge.
Probably be best to trade the rifle towards a more accommodating platform.Dont be too hasty there Dean.It's not that hard to do once the dies are modified, and I can do that for you as well.Also, it's very possible that your Sweed will feed 308 just fine.To find out, just make up some dummies, stuff 'em in your magazine, and see if they shuck or not. This is the basic idea of forming the 30x57 which he is chambering some rifles in.Thanks Larry! I didn't think about the taper of the case.As far as the wildcatting, I'm not smart enough to figure all that out. It makes a superb cast bullet rifle BTW.I'm sure goodsteel can do the work for you as we have discussed this a couple times.
The only SR Mauser I will not build on is a Spanish, but I won't build on a LR Spanish Mauser either! Spanish Mausers are not aloud in the shop, and neither are mosins.However, I check each and every Mauser I work on regardless of origin.Most of them were made of low carbon steel and all were case hardened. I still don't understand how a strip of metal (at the bottom of the magazine pushing up on a stack of cartridges) can make a difference in how all those cartridges feed, but it certainly can/does.Exactly. I don't mess with the feedrails unless I absolutely have to.
This is the ramp, and the surface opposite to it (go through the bottom of the action to get to it.)If the scribe slides on these surfaces like glass (as it should) and you see no hairline cracks or anything out of the ordinary like twisted metal from bubba's effort to remove the action with a steel rod through the raceways etc etc etc, then you are good to go.However, you must use a good quality scribe, it must be sharp, and all these surfaces must pass. It's just as if the action was not hardened at all and made of cold rolled.So check the critical places for hardness! Don't worry with the top of the action, many of them were ground off after heat treating so there is no case surface left there, but reach inside the action with a good quality scribe and try to scratch the upper and lower recoil surfaces. This makes it relatively easy to test for strength because if the surface is not hard, then it's got nothing.
The Arisaka is pretty decent but the bore is a sewer pipe. A close friend could be persuaded to trade me a 6,5mm Arisaka for the Swede. Found a couple Yugos that were on the fence, but nothing I would call useless.Okay, shift gears here a second. Found a few duds from Mexico too, but it's hit or miss. Like I said, the only actions that have failed this test 100% reliably some how, some way, some where, have been the Spanish Mausers.
If money weren't the problem I'd just send Goodsteel a check and say call me when it's done, I'll drive down and pick it up. 358 I wonder? Wonder if there's enough meat in the barrel? The Arisaka is CERTAINLY strong enough to handle anything.OAL length of the Arisaka is greater which is good, affording me plenty of boolit room.The Arisaka would be pretty sweet sitting in a select grade Richards microfit stock and maybe some upgraded sights or a nice steel body weaver scope.Just thinking out loud here and trying to work with what "I" can come up with. I'm just going on case length. 358 but I don't have an actual drawing.
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